Ennerdale Water and Smithy Beck Falls

Ennerdale Water is one of the least visited lakes of the Lake District, thanks to its remote location in West Cumbria. In fact, it’s so remote that the cottage you will pass on your way into the car park was used in Danny Boyle’s 2002 film, 28 Days Later, depicting an isolated refuge far removed from the chaos that transpired in the plot. Therefore, if you want somewhere peaceful, away from the summer crowds, this is usually a good bet. The downside is that there are no facilities, but you can find refreshments if you are willing to take a short drive after your walk.

This walk is just two miles long, and ideal for smaller legs. You can use your all-terrain pushchair here, but bear in mind that there are a couple of steep sections, albeit very short. You can also extend the route if required, but the longer route is not suitable for pushchairs. It is worth noting that Ennerdale Valley can be somewhat of a wind trap (the head of the valley is named Windy Gap for a good reason) and so do bring an extra layer of clothing, even on a sunny day.

1. The Start of the Walk – Bowness Knott Car Park

This walk starts at Bowness Knott car park, on the north-western side of Ennerdale. If you are coming from the direction of Keswick and Cockermouth, take the A5086 road towards Egremont and turn left at the sign for Loweswater / Lamplugh Church. At the end of this road turn right, signposted for Ennerdale. At the end of this road turn left, signposted for Ennerdale Lake. This will take you down a steep hill and the road ends at the car park, except for access to the Youth Hostel at the other end of the lake. Please note that during the winter this road is prone to freezing and can be very slippery.

At the far end of the car park there is an information board with notes about the local wildlife in the area. This is also where the path out of the car park begins.

2. The Lakeside Road

Follow the path pass the information board, and this will lead you onto the track road that goes to the Youth Hostel. Turn left here. The road is rarely used, but those with young walking children in particular should be aware that the odd car might pass by. The lake will be visible in front of you.

3. Picnic on the Shore

After a short distance on the track road, you will find yourself alongside the lake shore. Ahead, a small peninsula juts out into the lake. On this peninsula, there are couple of picnic benches and a few paddling spots, making it an ideal place to have a picnic.

4. Leaving the Lakeside Track

Just beyond the peninsula along the track road, there is a turning on the left into the woodland, marked with a post with a red arrow. Turn left here.

5. Through the Woodland and the First Bridge

Follow the woodland path as it ascends slightly up the fell. Please note that it is reasonably steep in places but manageable with an all-terrain pushchair. These woods are rich in wildlife with deer, red squirrels, and even the odd heron making it their home. The tall trees of the woodland provide a shelter for a woodland floor that is rich in plant life. Children can try and spot different species of insect along the way. Eventually, you will reach a footbridge over a small stream, which you will need to cross.

6. Smithy Beck Waterfall

Continue along the woodland path and the roar of Smithy Beck will be heard long before you reach the waterfall. You will come to a fork in the path with a signpost pointing right. Turn left here instead and you will arrive at a bridge with a lovely waterfall adjacent to it.

7. Back to the Lake and Alternative Longer Route

To take a longer route that is not pushchair friendly, you can cross over this bridge and take the track leading up the fell with Smithy Beck on your left. Where the track splits in two, a smaller path in the middle will take you to a large clearing where there was once a medieval settlement. At the other end of the clearing, turn right to follow the path back down the eastern side of Latterbarrow Fell, and this will return to you the lake path. This is a steeper, longer route, but does offer lovely views of the lake. However, for this shorter route, simply retrace your steps from the waterfall to where the path splits and this time go straight on, following the red arrow.

8. Return to the Car Park

At the end of this path you will arrive at the lakeside track. Turn right to return to the car park. There are a number of stone beaches along the track where children can paddle or throw stones.